Thursday, July 23, 2015

Markets, Pubs and Wales


Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Today was laundry day so we remained at home until two loads of laundry made their way through the washing cycle. The weather was iffy and hanging clothes outside was a risk so we headed to a laundromat to dry things. It was in fact a very efficient way to finish the laundry and move on to other activities.

Today was market day in Glastonbury. The Town Hall had tables of foods and other goods and there was a short street lined with tents outside as well as a small fruit and veg section. It took about 15 minutes to peruse everything that was available. We often have to remind ourselves that we come from a community that is renowned for its largesse in farmer’s markets. We are truly spoiled.

After a quick bite at Burns the Bread, we moved on to Clarks Village in Street. Clarks Village is the transformation of the original Clarks Shoe Company site from a manufacturing site to a retail shopping complex. The site was beautifully designed and well manicured. Flower baskets and gardens lined the walkways and added colour to the overhanging roofs along the walkways. There are more than 100 stores in the complex, anchored by a very large Clarks Show outlet and a Marks and Spencer outlet. We wandered and browsed but really found nothing that we either needed or wanted. Except for a pair of shoes from Clarks for Jim.

We had been invited for Afternoon Cream Tea with Jim and Viola Nagel, friends of our exchange partners, at their home. Overall, it was a lovely event. There was much rich conversation, delicious and freshly made whole wheat scones, homemade strawberry jam and thick Devon cream. Jim Nagel coincidentally grew up in Kitchener, attended Preuter Public School and Eastwood High School. Although a few years older than Jim and I, we recall his name from our University of Waterloo days as the editor and the student paper, The Chevron. It was quite amazing after that passing of more than 50 years, how many people we knew in common. We actually shared a couple of quite close friends. It is an amazingly small world at times!

We spent a pleasant evening at home. The daylight extends until well past 9:30 and Jim and I regularly sit at the dining room table with our computers, working on this blog or our photo book or planning our next outings. It is wonderful to be able to look out over the pasture land that is behind the house and observe people and dogs walking along the river, cattle grazing on the grass, birds soaring through the air – especially the swallows that catch the air currents and appear to float.

Tonight we were not especially hungry for dinner because of the longlasting cream tea. We were satisfied with a light salad that mostly came from the garden … crisp, fresh, delicious!!

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Off to another market town today … this time in Wells. We started with a late breakfast at Wetherspoons Pub , a predictable hearty and inexpensive breakfast, consistently offered at all the Wetherspoons Pubs, so you really know what you are getting. Eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, hash browns, toast and coffee. Needless to so, you do not leave hungry.

In some ways, it is a good idea to go to a market when you are not very hungry. The colourful stalls of delectable foods are interesting and attractive, but the wallet remains closed for the most part. This market is a large outdoor market, a combination of a wide range of food as well as crafts and other products. In contrast to Glastonbury yesterday, this was the market to be at.  We took loads of photos of beautiful vegetable displays, eggs sold in half dozen boxes, freshly made scones, pasties, and other pastries, fresh fish and meats, cheeses of all kinds – cheddar and stilton are our favourites.

We came upon a stall that specialized in Scotch Eggs, a hardcooked egg covered in a thick layer of fresh pork, coated with a crispy topping and deep fried. Those of you who have known us since our chlldren were small will remember our much beloved nanny, Morag. She used to make scotch eggs for us and we loved them. We have not had one since. And so we indulged!! There were so many flavours to choose from. This vendor had perfected the art of scotch eggs and diversified the flavour using a wide range of herbs and spices. When we finally made a selection and bit into the egg, it took us back to the days that Morag was a part of our family. What a treat it was in so many ways!!

We wanted to visit the Bishop’s Palace but, alas, it was closed today and for much of the week due to the filming of a major motion picture, The Huntsman, due to be released in April 2016. We will be sure to go and see it as much of it was being set and filmed before our very eyes.

We were able to visit the Wells cathedral instead. What a large and glorious building it is!   Stained glass windows, arches, pillars, graves, a magnificent pipe organ in the choir … all cleaned and refurbished. It was possible to read the dates on most graves, to read the names of those buried under our feet, some dating as far back as the 1300’s.  It must also be amazing to hear the sound of the organ reverberating throughout the building during worship or concerts.

An interesting feature of this cathedral are what are known as the scissor arches. After the cathedral had been built, it was noted the towers were beginning to sink. So enormous scissor-shaped arches were installed inside the cathedral below the towers to provide additional support. When you think about the immensity of that undertaking in a time when there were no power tools, no motorized equipment, no health and safety standards, just an man with an idea and a very large work force, it is remarkable what was accomplished. How did they get all those massive stones raised high in the cathedral and accurately put in place?

We left the cathedral and strolled the High Street in Wells, stopping for a refreshing cool drink and a chance to observe people as they scurried past. We did drop into a shop or two, looking for a replica of a beautiful lightweight blanket that feels invisible, beautifully woven and warm as toast which our hosts have in their home. No success on that count today.

We drove home along main highway until Jim saw a sign that peaked his interest. Off to the byways we went, passing through farmland with fields of corn, pasture and hay. Wild flowers were scattered along the ditches so many colours and shapes and sizes.  Many photos later, we must have the perfect photo!

Finally we found our way to the main road again and headed almost directly home except for a stop at Tesco, the supermarket, for a couple of grocery items and Tonic Water. We would not have otherwise been able to indulge in the ultimate of summer drinks, a gin and tonic! Whew! A near miss!


Thursday, July 16, 2015

Thursday began as a much quieter day. Jim is working on plan for the next several days, including a side trip to Wales with Iain. Iain arrives in London on Friday where he will spend the weekend. We will meet him on Monday at the train station in Bristol and spend a couple of days in south Wales before returning to Glastonbury.

The weather was cool and rainy in the morning. From our seats at the dining room table we are able to watch the weather literally sweep across the hills and bring the rain and wind to our doorstep. It is quite dramatic seeing the sheathe of rain envelop the landscape and eventually coat the window and embrace the house. Weather here is extremely changeable so what looks like a bleak day in the morning will often transform into a beautiful sunny day by the afternoon. Such was the circumstance today.

By the time we were ready to leave the house, the sun was out and it was a grand day to go to the centre of town. Our purpose today was to capture the character of Glastonbury as well as the characters of Glastonbury through the lense of the camera. We strolled the High Street looking for interesting shops and people and had no trouble finding either one. I have described the shops earlier in this blog. Let me just reiterate by saying this small town has a collection of some of the most eclectic shops I have ever seen. And the people to go with it ….. Women sport as many hair colours and styles as the eye can imagine. Clothing is often colourful and wispy, with unique lines, lengths and patterns. Hats and lavish makeup are commonplace along the street as well as tattoos and piercings. Facial hair on men is common, especially braided beards. And long hair to go with it.

We paused for a coffee at Market Square, followed by more strolling. I was delighted to find a lovely place to get a manicure and I booked one for tomorrow. While Jim went off to run a couple of errands, I was about to read a book at a shady table at an outdoor café. Such pleasure.

Finally we stopped for a late lunch at a café that serves only pancakes and crepes. We were reticent at first but most cafes close by 2:30 so we knew we have trouble finding another one that was open. My crepe was buckwheat filled with sun dried tomatoes, sauted spinach, black olives and goat’s cheese. It was absolutely melt-in-the-mouth delicious!! Jim’s was buckwheat filled with mushrooms and sauted spinach and also delicious. We were so glad that we landed at this café through total accident. We will return (if we have time).

We came back home for a brief period before heading out for dinner with Jim and Viola Nagel (our cream tea hosts). We met at a pub called Who’d Have Thought It, an ancient building on a pedestrian thoroughfare. From the many delicious offerings on the menu, I chose posh fish pie and Jim settled on the Somerset sausage plate. Both meals were beautifully presented and wonderfully delicious. Good the very last morsel. Wine and beer accompanied the meal along with lively conversation about many topics. It is great fun to be able to ask locals questions about their community. There is so much to learn about what makes a community work and, generally as a tourist, one barely scratches the surface. We finished off the meal by sharing a sticky toffee pudding, again a very good choice. We have really struck it rich with food choices today. Mmm good!

With the Nagels, we walked a short distance to the George and Pilgrim pub for cider. The G & P, as it is called by the locals, is the oldest inn in Glastonbury. Its records date back to the 1400’s. For the most part, it has retained its history and original building style, creating an amazing ambience and building structure. Tiny, yet exquisite stain glass windows welcome guests at the front of the building, a gigantic fireplace which could feature a real roaring fire is part of the lounge area.  Original timbers and undulating floors underfoot are also reflective of the age of the building. Over the many centuries, paupers and kings have all slept here, including King Henry VIII who, as the story goes, watched from his window in the inn, as the magnificent Glastonbury Abbey was destroyed at his command. No one who lives here thinks much of Henry VIII.

As the evening ended for us, at the final bell in the pub, we bid farewell to the Nagels. We hope that our paths will cross again in some way, whether in K-W or in the UK. They were wonderful people to meet and delightful companions. A great way to complete our day!


Friday, July 17, 2015

Another trip to the countryside … Following a leisurely start to the day, we headed out of town to a pub called Sheppey Inn in Lower Godney. Once we left the main highway, the roads became narrower and narrower until we began to wonder whether anyone would actually come this far on these roads just for lunch. We passed through the village of Godney (blink and you miss it) and the hamlet of Upper Godney (another half blink) and then travelled for what seemed like a long way on winding roads until we reached Lower Godney. A surprise awaited us. Lower Godney was quite a good sized village with several homes all hugging the edge of the road, a couple of businesses, a school, several B&B’s and, of course, Sheppey Inn.

Most buildings in Lower Godney were in very good condition with clean stone structures, brightly painted doorways, colorful flowers hanging in pots and hedges that were trimmed. Sheppey Inn is actually an old dairy barn converted to a new use. It was in very good shape and inviting from the appearance of the exterior. The only entrance was through a small grey door. Not knowing what we might find on the other side, it felt a bit like Alice going through the looking glass.

Inside we found a wonderful bar, fashioned totally from reused materials. We also found several dining areas, each one occupying a room that would have been used during the dairy process. At the back of the building was a large outdoor patio and a large room that might have once been used to store feed and straw. It had been transformed into a rather modern dining area, yet in keeping with the remainder of the inn. We chose to eat in that room because of the many windows that allowed the lovely light of the day pour in.

Drinks, as usual, are ordered at the bar (an ale shandy and a Camden stout) and carried to the table. The menu was extensive and innovative. Jim ordered a fish stew with both shellfish and salmon in it accompanied by a thick sweet potato broth. I ordered a child’s portion of the soup of the day (pea, mint and broad bean) and a monkfish burger. The bowl of soup was huge and delicious. The monkfish burger was a bit unusual – monkfish, thick bacon, a mustard dressing and arugula and a bun. Not just any bun though. This was a squid ink bun. During preparation, squid ink is added to the bun batter, turning it totally black. The presentation of the burger along side fresh plum chutney was exquisite. The squid had no flavour so it was like a regular sesame seed bun but it certainly added a unique flair to the meal.

After lunch, we headed across country on some new roads and came upon the Railway Inn near the villages of Meare and Ashcott. Sadly, it was closed so we could not go in for a beverage. We have been told that if we enjoyed Wilkins Cider Farm, we will also like The Railway Inn. We will go back another day.

Back in Glastonbury, the first stages of the Magic Festival had begun. Several magicians gathered in Market Square to perform their shows. It was a pass the hat event. In order to see the more professional magicians, it was necessary to purchase a ticket that allowed entry into the Market Building which is where the Magic Festival is taking place on Saturday and Sunday. Time will tell whether we choose to go or not.

Tonight we are off to a movie called A Royal Night based on a true life incident that has been dramatically fictionalized about Queen Elizabeth and Princess Margaret as they grew up. The premise is that they went out on the town on VE Night to celebrate the end of the war and escaped from their chaperones. It is a very funny movie, helpful to know it was a spoof before we saw it.

Saturday, July 18, 2015.

This has been a very quiet yet productive day at home. My project for the day was to work on our photos and create our photo book for this trip. I know myself well enough to realize that if I do not create the photo book during our adventure, I certainly will not get around to creating it at home. I must say that I am very happy with the results so far. Now all I have to do is keep up the pace for the next week until we go home.

Jim has continued to work on our plan for the coming week, our last days in the UK. Time does have a way of flashing past. We heard from son, Iain, today that he has arrived in London and will spend the weekend there. We will meet him on Monday evening in Bristol and head to Wales for a couple of days. Then back to Glastonbury to take Iain on a whirlwind tour of the best things we have done and see during the time we have been here. The list is long so those two days will be busy. Then, off to Stonehenge and on to Gatwick where we will meet Paul and Maggie (our house exchange partners) for lunch on Saturday. And we fly home on Sunday! Whew!!!

At the moment we are getting ready to go back out into the countryside in to have a drink and maybe dinner at the Railway Inn which was closed yesterday. We’ll see what happens today.

Well, the Railway Inn was open. And there were actually a few people there, all locals, if we can judge by the way the conversation ceased as soon as tourists walked through the door. It was a clean, quiet place with a well supplied bar, including glasses for each brewery and cidery that were represented behind the counter.  Jim ordered a local beer and I ordered a half a shandy.  It did not take us long to determine that the only food available were the wrapped buns on the counter at the end of the bar. Not today, thanks.

A few words were spoken as we sipped our drinks and then we left. Although it was a cute little place in the midst of the countryside, there was nothing about The Railway Inn that would entice us to return.

Just up the road was a large natural area that was a bird sanctuary. Walking and biking trails took visitors to forested areas, grasslands, bird blinds and wetlands. Patches of wild flowers including poppies frolicked in the breeze. It was too late in the day for us to venture into the area. To bad we had not known about this place earlier in our time in Glastonbury.

Back in town, we went to the Bocabar for dinner. It is ranked as one of the top two restaurants in Glastonbury and reservations are highly recommended. It was early Saturday evening and we were not surprised to find that they were totally booked out. Happily, though, they said we could have a table if we agreed to be finished before 8 pm. That was fine with us and we sat down to what was indeed a sumptuous meal.  A delicious pork belly dish for Jim and I enjoyed a crepe filled with salmon, topped with an Asian sauce and served with a light salsa and a rocket salad. Both dishes supported the fact that this was one of Glastonbury’s top restaurants.

Next on our agenda was a play that was being presented in the Assembly Rooms downtown. It was a local production called Good Morning, Glastonbury, a spoof on some of the unusual characteristics and behaviours found in this town.  The Assembly Rooms turned out to be a rustic room in a very old building set aside for community activities and events. To say that this play was low budget is the understatement. And to say that the actors were amateurs is without question. The production was a comedy as much for the silliness of the plot and for the lack of talent on stage as for the occasional funny line. We left at intermission.

The next episode of Borgen was waiting for us at home and that was a much more appealing option than Act Two of Good Morning, Glastonbury!




Sunday July 19, 2015

We set off early to Wells this morning. The Bishop’s Palace had reopened after the filming extravaganza this week and we wanted to see it. The day was bright and sunny and we were energized by the weather.

The Bishop’s Palace proved to be a delightful place – beautiful gardens, lovely mansion, well manicured green space – under the gorgeous blue sky it was idyllic. Families were picnicking, couples were strolling, the outdoor tables at the café were filled with people enjoying the beautiful day.

We walked past the front of the Well Cathedral which is very beautiful to Vicar’s Close,  oldest residential street in Europe. The original homes were built in the 1300’s and are all still there. The chimneys added in the 1400’s. These houses were originally occupied by vicars who came to Wells to sing in the cathedral, up to 8 services per day. The vicars began their musical ministry in 1100’s. The dining room is in the space above the archway leading into the street. What a quaint and well maintained street!

We enjoyed a traditional Sunday roast dinner at Wetherspoons in Wells. It was a very full and attractive plate of roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, potato, vegetables and delectable gravy. Needless to say, we did not need to eat again today.

It was a beautiful day for a drive on country roads. It was lovely traversing the sun swept countryside en route to Bath. Once there, we went directly to my favourite store – Mr. B’s Emporium of Reading Delights. It was such fun to browse the shelves, read the reviews written by staff and make selections for many people, including myself. Sadly, we stayed a bit too long. Sally Lunn’s had closed before we could get there. No world famous buns or cream tea for us today. Fortunately we have indulged before as well as taken in other Bath highlights and … we know we will return

It was a lovely drive back home where we spent a quiet evening doing laundry, catching up on the diary, and watching another couple of episodes of Borgen, a Norwegian series somewhat similar to West Wing. We must finish this DVD before we leave. It has to be returned to the library.


Monday, July 20, 2015

We enjoyed our full English breakfast at the Gastrobar, a highly recommended café in Glastonbury. While we ate, our freshly washed clothes were tumbling in the dryers at the nearby laundromat. Once they were dry and we had finished our coffees, we made a quick trip back to the house to deliver laundry before heading for Bristol.

It was a rather soggy day. There was no doubt we would need sweaters and umbrellas as the day went on. We drove on the freeway to Bristol, a nice change and much faster than the country roads we experienced in recent days.

The first thing we did was take the full tour on the Hop on Hop Off Bus. Due to the rain we were not able to ride upstairs with the open-topped roof.  Mostly we sat inside, often only people on bus, and had our own personalized tour. We travelled through and heard stories about the city centre, the suspension bridge, churches, theatres, old dockworkers homes, elegant, well preserved and high end homes and a provate school along the way.

We then took a boat tour of the old harbor area. A new shipping harbor has been constructed a few miles closer to sea. The old area now houses sailing yachts, retired ships transformed into nightclubs or high end restaurants, permanent houseboats, water taxis, ships of historical importance open to public and many other vessels. It has once again become a bustling harbor and a focal point of a city in transformation.

And still it rained ….  We sought refuge in a dockside restaurant with drinks and reading material. We finally felt compelled to order a light late lunch as a way of justifying occupying the seats for so long. Finally the rain relented somewhat and we returned to our car. We created out own personal driving tour of city. We drove over suspension bridge, explored high end residential neighbourhoods, and tried to find new shipping docks to no avail. We could see them in the distance but we could find no road that led us there.

It was time to make our way to Bristol Parkway train station to meet Iain’s train. Iain has been in London for a few days and is now joining us for a short road trip into Wales. We headed across the bridge that spans the Bristol Channel and took us to Wales. Our first stop was for dinner at the Bell Hanger in Chepstow, a Wetherspoon’s pub. Then It was but a short drive to our hotel along motorway. It was lovely to be out of the car and into our room, all the while catching up with Iain and his London adventures.


Tuesday, July 21, 2015

We started our day looking for Chepstow Castle. We were in the small town of Chepstow so how hard can it be to find a castle. Well …. Let me tell you. The town is built on a very steep slope so there is no visibility beyond the row of buildings on the side of the street. Signs are limited. We finally learned that the ‘I’ sign for information also led to the castle. And, the street are all one way and eventually lead to a one lane access point through the ancient gate to the city. Lovely as the gate was, the fifth time we passed through it was far less thrilling than the first.  I am not going to share the conversation in the car at that point!

Eventually, we found that castle! At the very bottom of the hill! Not where I would generally expect to find a castle!!! But there it was and it was well worth the struggle to get there. Chepstow Castle was built on the bank of a river and into the side of a hill. In order to explore the castle, it was necessary to continuously walk uphill. Each room or section was on a level higher than the one below. Only very fit people would have been able to live here …. Or you would get fit quickly! The exterior castle walls and the walls of each interior space were very much intact. There were still sections of the structure that were stable enough to climb narrow staircases and actually get inside. The original doors of the castle, dating from the approximately 1200, were on display in one of the interior, sheltered spaces. It is always a marvel to me when I encounter something that is so very, very old. It humbles me when I think that in Canada we consider anything over 100 years to be very, very old. Perspective …. That is what history is about.

After a very pleasant wander through the castle, we left Chepstow behind and travelled toward Tintern Abbey along a beautiful Welsh highway. Once we got on the correct road, the drive to the Abbey was gentle and short. And the Abbey was impressive.

Built along the side of a river, deep in a valley, the walls of the Abbey stood majestically in the sunlight. What an amazing structure it must have been. Most of the walls were intact along with many of the columns. The windows and roof were gone, allowing the sunshine to pour through. It was glorious to wander in and out of the shadows and imagine the routine of the monks each day … where they worshipped, where they ate, where they prayed, where they slept. What a hard life, yet a deeply spiritual life they must have had … and all within this amazing structure in an absolutely beautiful and wild landscape.  The nearby cafes and gift shops were relatively discrete and did not take away from the beauty of the experience.

Next we travelled to Monmouth along another winding, shaded roadway Just outside Monmouth, we found the road to Kymin, a National Trust property at the very top of a high, high hill (perhaps considered a mountain in Wales). We made a sharp right turn and began our drive up the narrow, one-lane road. It was a worry to consider what we might do if we were to meet a vehicle coming down the same road. Happily, part way up, we caught up with another vehicle that was also making its way to the top. We followed as closely as we could, enjoying the fact that it was running interference for us and would work out the details if we met a car coming down. Happily, we made it all the way to the top without issue and gratefully parked in the large parking lot at the site.  (We also managed to leave Kymin at the same time as another vehicle and deliberately followed it to the bottom. What a relief it was to have someone ahead of us and also to make it all the way down without encountering anyone coming up!)

Kymin is the property at the very top of the hill. It provides vistas in every direction. The day was clear so the visibility was amazing!! In one direction, a series of hills, a patchwork of fields of crops, cattle, hap, woodlot. Such a variety of colour and texture in the landscape. In the other direction were the town of Monmouth and the Wye River valley far below us. Beyond the town was another array of agricultural land and in the distance a beautiful set of rolling hills. What a beautiful setting!

At the very top of Kymin is the Round House, so named because the house was actually built as a round house. This building was constructed in the early 1800’s by the Monmouth Picnickers Club and was used for their weekly meetings including a sumptuous meal, prepared in the kitchens in the Round House.  In its hay day, there was a bowling green, stables, picnic grounds and a large playing field on the site. Now the house is primarily used for weddings and other special events and the surrounding grounds are open to the public for picnics, walks and general relaxation.

We carried on travelling through South Wales, this time headed for the World Heritage Area of Blaenavon. Blaenavon was the site where iron (1787 – 1904) and coal (1810 – 1980) were first discovered in Wales.  These were the first significant mining operations in the world for iron and coal and influenced mining and manufacturing in other major areas such as Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. It was a thriving industry here for many, many years, attracting workers from all over Great Britain as well as Europe. The production of iron ceased in 1904 while coal continued to be harvested until 1980. The World Heritage Museum in Blaenavon provides a wonderful display of the timeline and history of the area. The original mining buildings have also been restored and are open to visitors.

We travelled through some surprising landscapes in this area. Under gray skies, we crossed bleak moors covered with struggling grasses which supplied the food for the roaming herds of sheep and cattle.  We were afforded amazing views while the wind howled across the landscape. Grids crossed the road to separate herds of animals from wandering into other farms

From the moors, we travelled east along the Heads of the Valleys Road, an area where all the rivers converge from Brecon Beacons National Park to the north. The rolling countryside and the Welsh mountains provided beautiful landscapes along the rise and fall of the roadway. Sadly, we encountered very heavy traffic on the road and lots of construction, reminiscent of home.

We arrived at our hotel (Days Inn) about 6 and gratefully left the car behind for a short time. We used Trip Advisor to find a suitable place for dinner. We were not disappointed. We enjoyed our meal at The Star Inn in Treoes (just outside Cardiff). The food was excellent and the service was memorable. Three young women were tripping over each other to serve the Canadian table. It was cute to see them negotiate who would describe the specials, who would take our order, who would deliver the food, who would check in to make sure we were happy, who would replenish the drinks. Maybe it was the presence of a handsome, young Canadian man since Jim and I have never independently attracted such attentive service. Thanks, Iain!

As usual, en route to the restaurant, the GPS guided us along a most interesting tour of countryside. We travelled along stretches (miles) of narrow high hedged roadways, once again happy that we did not meet any oncoming vehicles. We got totally lost at one point and had to stop and ask at a house how to get to the Star Inn (so much for GPS reliability!). On our return trip, Jim was happy to take us back along the same rods.  Iain and I both objected to going back to hotel along the same roads as dark was descending. Indeed, we found a route back to the hotel without the help of the GPS and without travelling along narrow hedge-lined roads. It was much faster and less nerve-tracking to say the least. I think that there is a setting on the GPS that encourages the most circuitous route possible!


Wednesday, July 22, 2015

We had a frustrating start to this day. After many, many wrong turns and confusion on the roundabouts, we did eventually make it it to Cardiff!

Breakfast (now lunch) at another Wetherspoons Pub. This pub chain provides modestly priced, consistently good food and the pubs are generally easily to find. You order your drinks and food at the bar and carry it yourself to your table. It is still entertaining to me to be easting my breakfast surrounded by people, men and women, who have dropped in for a pint of ale or lager. They sip it like a cup of coffee and then make their way about their daily business. Prohibition in Canada has certainly influenced the way we look at alcohol consumption!

We planned our day. iain wanted to go to the Cardiff Castle and Jim and I wanted to ride on the Cardiff Hop On Hop Off bus. Absolutely complementary activities. So off we went in our different directions.

The bus tour was great. Nice weather allowed us to ride up top, excellent for good viewing as well as easy photographs. We passed through many parts of Cardiff – city centre, government area, university, docklands, business area and back to the castle.  An interesting feature of Cardiff is that it was only developed as a significant city in the 1800’s so, like at home, there is nothing there that would be considered really old. And as the city modernizes and areas are redeveloped, there is far less concern about pulling ‘old’ buildings down to make way for the new ones. It creates an interesting mix of older, traditional buildings and modern buildings with interesting designs.  When land was donated for the construction of government buildings, university buildings and some museums, there was also a restriction put in place that they must be built with Portland stone, limestone from Dorset. This provides a similarity in colour although the facades of these buildings are quite varied in style due to the ease of carving and shaping the stone.

We met Iain in a nearby pub and then spent some time in a Welsh gift shop. Iain had thoroughly enjoyed his tour of the castle and found the history very interesting.

Back into the car and we were on our way to back to England and Somerset. The weather lightened as we traveled along and soon after crossing the impressive bridge over the Bristol Channel, the sky cleared and the sun poured through. It was lovely.

We had time to take Iain to a few interesting places as we made our way to Glastonbury. First stop was Cheddar Gorge, a steep and precipitous gorge that is different from any other landscape in Somerset. (We still did not buy any cheese in Cheddar.) From there we drove on narrow country roads to Wilkins Cider Farm where we indulged in the mandatory mug of cider, examined the barn, and gasped at the spiderwebs that hung from every surface. Another interesting destination in Somerset.

Our final stop before home was at Knights Fish and Chips. We had eaten dinner at Knights the day we arrived and wanted to share the experience with Iain. The food was delicious and the history of the building quite awesome. And then we were homeward bound where we spent a very pleasant evening reading, writing, napping and enjoying the views from the windows on this perfect summer evening.

Friday, July 17, 2015

Colours, Characters and Markets of Glastonbury and Somerset


Monday July 13, 2015

Today was a big day. We were travelling to Exeter in Devon where we had spent a few summers while Jim worked at the Universoty of Exeter. We were eager to retrace some of steps and revisit some favourite places.

We set out early and stopped at the first service centre along the freeway to get a take-away coffee.  It turned out to be the strangest service centre we have ever encountered. From the freeway to the shops, we had to go through two round-abouts and under a low yellow gate. At that point, we were in a circular road with no apparent exit except to get back on the freeway. Finally, I just stopped the car and Jim hopped out, determined to get two coffees no matter what. I continued to snake the car along the roadway hoping that Jim would be able to find me once he had our coffees in hand. Eventually, I had to park illegally while Jim got the coffee … from a coffee truck, yes … a coffee truck …. The only source coffee in this service centre!  Success!! Jim found the car and had the coffee! And it was good Costa Coffee.

We sipped our coffee as we continued along the road to Taunton where I sent a happy hour spent in a Mothercare store purchasing items for grandchildren and other babies. It was great fun with good results. Nice to be able to buy some things that are slightly different than what is available at home.

Then we turned the wheel to our destination for the day – Exeter in Devon.  We were revisiting places we lived and places we love. We began with a late breakfast at the Imperial Pub, eaten outside on the patio overlooking beautiful gardens, lovely lawns and in the distance the Devon countryside

Next we drove past Balcony Mansion, our first home in Exeter (a student house on a pretty run down street but it served us well), and the Castle, a lovely modern home where Jim spent much time during his second summer in Exeter. It even had an indoor swimming pool.

Then across the Iron Bridge, passing by the ancient walls of Exeter, into the main shopping area on High Street and the Cathedral Green. What a delightful place! Although we did not purchase a single thing, we enjoyed walking along the pedestrian mall, sitting in front of the cathedral sipping fruit juice while taking in the history and ambience of this vibrant yet ancient city.

Soon we left Exeter behind and drove into Dartmoor National Park. We passed through Moretonhampstead, one of my favourite country towns, as we traversed narrow, winding roads with high high hedges and stone walls. We often had to stop to provide space for oncoming traffic to get past us – an adventure in driving to be sure. The scenery, when it was visible, was gorgeous.

We were heading to Fingle Bridge, one of our favourite places, down a very steep forested hillside along an especially narrow road with a babbling river and a  17C stone arch packhorse bridge at the end of the road. It was a treat to enjoy an authentic Devon Cream Tea.  Scones, cream, jam and tea have never tasted better than in this picturesque place.

Following tea, we continued our drive through the countryside  of Dartmoor to reach Denmore where we were to meet Susan and David Karoly for dinner. Until this very morning, we had no idea that we were all in the UK, just an hour or so apart. What fun it was to discover that and be able to make arrangements to meet. Serendipity at work! It is indeed a small world! Dinner in the Union Pub in Denmore was both tasty and fun. We look forward to another shared encounter in Australia later this year.

Our drive home to Glastonbury was smooth, taking us mostly along major highways which were much faster and much gentler than expected. We achieved mostly in the daylight, thanks to the late light evenings here. Dusk fell at 9:40 and we were home before 10 pm. Nonetheless, it was very nice to arrive home!



Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Today was laundry day so we remained at home until two loads of laundry made their way through the washing cycle. The weather was iffy and hanging clothes outside was a risk so we headed to a Laundromat to dry things. It was in fact a very efficient way to finish the laundry and move on to other activities.

It was market day in Glastonbury. The Town Hall had tables of foods and other goods and there was a short street lined with tents outside as well as a small fruit and veg section. It took about 15 minutes to peruse everything that was available. We often have to remind ourselves that we come from a community that is reknowned for its largesse in farmer’s markets. We are truly spoiled.

After a quick bite at Burns the Bread, we moved on to Clarks Village in Street. Clarks Village is the transformation of the original Clarks Shoe Company site from a manufacturing site to a retail shopping complex.  (All manufacturing is done in Chinas now.) The site was beautifully designed and well manicured. Flower baskets and gardens lined the walkways and added colour to the overhanging roofs along the walkways. There are more than 100 stores in the complex, anchored by a very large Clarks Show outlet and a Marks and Spencer outlet. We wandered and browsed but really found nothing that we either needed or wanted. Except for a pair of shoes from Clarks for Jim.

We had been invited for Afternoon Cream Tea with Jim and Viola Nagel, friends of our exchange partners, at their home. Overall, it was a lovely event. There was much rich conversation, delicious and freshly made whole wheat scones, homemade strawberry jam and thick Devon cream. Jim Nagel coincidentally grew up in Kitchener, attended Preuter Public School and Eastwood High School. Although a few years older than Jim and I, we recall his name from our University of Waterloo days as the editor and the student paper, The Chevron. It was quite amazing after that passing of more than 50 years, how many people we knew in common. We actually shared a couple of quite close friends. It is an amazingly small world at times!

We spent a pleasant evening at home. The daylight extends until well past 9:30 and Jim and I regularly sit at the dining room table with our computers, working on this blog or our photo book or planning our next outings. It is wonderful to be able to look out over the pastureland that is behind the house and observe people and dogs walking along the river, cattle grazing on the grass, birds soaring through the air – especially the swallows that catch the air currents and appear to float.

Tonight we were not especially hungry for dinner because of the longlasting cream tea. We were satisfied with a light salad that mostly came from the garden … crisp, fresh, delicious!!

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Off to another market town today … this time in Wells. We started with a late breakfast at Witherspoons Pub , a predictable hearty and inexpensive breakfast, consistently offered at all the Witherspoons Pubs, so you really know what you are getting. Eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, hash browns, toast and coffee. Needless to so, you do not leave hungry.

In some ways, it is a good idea to go to a market when you are not very hungry. The colourful stalls of delectable foods are interesting and attractive, but the wallet remains closed for the most part. This market is a large outdoor market, a combination of a wide range of food as well as crafts and other products. In contrast to Glastonbury yesterday, this was the market to be at.  We took loads of photos of beautiful vegetable displays, eggs sold in half dozen boxes, freshly made scones, pasties, and other pastries, fresh fish and meats, cheeses of all kinds – cheddar and stilton are our favourites.

We came upon a stall that specialized in Scotch Eggs, a hardcooked egg covered in a thick layer of fresh pork, coated with a crispy topping and deep fried. Those of you who have known us since our chlldren were small will remember our much beloved nanny, Morag. She used to make scotch eggs for us and we loved them. We have not had one since. And so we indulged!! There were so many flavours to choose from. This vendor had perfected the art of scotch eggs and diversified the flavour using a wide range of herbs and spices. When we finally made a selection and bit into the egg, it took us back to the days that Morag was a part of our family. What a treat it was in so many ways!!

We wanted to visit the Bishop’s Palace in Wells but, alas, it was closed today and for much of the week due to the filming of a major motion picture, The Huntsman, due to be released in April 2016. We will be sure to go and see the movie as much of it was being set and filmed before our very eyes.

We were able to visit the Wells cathedral instead. What a large and glorious building it is!   Stained glass windows, arches, pillars, graves, a magnificent pipe organ in the choir … all cleaned and refurbished. It was possible to read the dates on most graves, to read the names of those buried under our feet, some dating as far back as the 1300’s.  It must also be amazing to hear the sound of the organ reverberating throughout the building during worship or concerts.

An interesting feature of this cathedral is what are known as the scissor arches. After the cathedral had been built, it was noted the towers were beginning to sink. So enormous scissor-shaped arches were installed inside the cathedral below the towers to provide additional support. When you think about the immensity of that undertaking in a time when there were no power tools, no motorized equipment, no health and safety standards, just a man with an idea and a very large work force, it is remarkable what was accomplished. How did they get all those massive stones raised high in the cathedral and accurately put in place?

We left the cathedral and strolled the High Street in Wells, stopping for a refreshing cool drink and a chance to observe people as they scurried past. We did drop into a shop or two, looking for a replica of a beautiful lightweight blanket that feels invisible, beautifully woven and warm as toast which our hosts have in their home. No success on that count today.

We drove home along main highway until Jim saw a sign that peaked his interest. Off to the byways we went, passing through farmland with fields of corn, pasture and hay. Wild flowers were scattered along the ditches  with such an array of colours and shapes and sizes.  Many photos later, we must have the perfect photo!

Finally we found our way to the main road again and headed almost directly home except for a stop at Tesco, the supermarket, for a couple of grocery items and Tonic Water. We would not have otherwise been able to indulge in the ultimate of summer drinks, a gin and tonic! Whew! A near miss!





Thursday, July 16, 2015

Thursday began as a much quieter day. Jim is working on plan for the next several days, including a side trip to Wales with Iain. Iain arrives in London on Friday where he will spend the weekend. We will meet him on Monday at the train station in Bristol and spend a couple of days in south Wales before returning to Glastonbury.

The weather was cool and rainy in the morning. From our seats at the dining room table we are able to watch the weather literally sweep across the hills and bring the rain and wind to our doorstep. It is quite dramatic seeing the sheathe of rain envelop the landscape and eventually coat the window and embrace the house. Weather here is extremely changeable so what looks like a bleak day in the morning will often transform into a beautiful sunny day by the afternoon. Such was the circumstance today.

By the time we were ready to leave the house, the sun was out and it was a grand day to go to the centre of town. Our purpose today was to capture the character of Glastonbury as well as the characters of Glastonbury through the lense of the camera. We strolled the High Street looking for interesting shops and people and had no trouble finding either one. I have described the shops earlier in this blog. Let me just reiterate by saying this small town has a collection of some of the most eclectic shops I have ever seen. And the people to go with it ….. Women sport as many hair colours and styles as the eye can imagine. Clothing is often colourful and wispy, with unique lines, lengths and patterns. Hats and lavish makeup are commonplace along the street as well as tattoos and piercings. Facial hair on men is common, especially braided beards. And long hair to go with it.

We paused for a coffee at Market Square, followed by more strolling. I was delighted to find a lovely place to get a manicure and I booked one for tomorrow. While Jim went off to run a couple of errands, I was able to read a book at a shady table at an outdoor café. Such pleasure.

Finally we stopped for a late lunch at a café that serves only pancakes and crepes. We were reticent at first but most cafes close by 2:30 so we knew we have trouble finding another one that was open. My crepe was buckwheat filled with sun dried tomatoes, sauted spinach, black olives and goat’s cheese. It was absolutely melt-in-the-mouth delicious!! Jim’s was buckwheat filled with mushrooms and sauted spinach and also delicious. We were so glad that we landed at this café through total accident. We will return (if we have time).

We came back home for a brief period before heading out for dinner with Jim and Viola Nagel (our cream tea hosts). We met at a pub called Who’d Have Thought It, an ancient building on a pedestrian thoroughfare. From the many delicious offerings on the menu, I chose posh fish pie and Jim settled on the Somerset sausage plate. Both meals were beautifully presented and wonderfully delicious. Good the very last morsel. Wine and beer accompanied the meal along with lively conversation about many topics. It is great fun to be able to ask locals questions about their community. There is so much to learn about what makes a community work and, generally as a tourist, one barely scratches the surface. We finished off the meal by sharing a sticky toffee pudding, again a very good choice. We have really struck it rich with food choices today. Mmm good!

With the Nagels, we walked a short distance to the George and Pilgrim pub for cider. The G & P, as it is called by the locals, is the oldest inn in Glastonbury. Its records date back to the 1400’s. For the mostpart, it has retained its history and original building style, creating an amazing ambience and building structure. Tiny, yet exquisite stain glass windows welcome guests at the front of the building. A gigantic fireplace which would feature a real roaring fire is part of the lounge area.  Original timbers and undulating floors underfoot are also reflective of the age of the building. Over the many centuries, paupers and kings have all slept here, including King Henry VIII who, as the story goes, watched from his window in the inn, as the magnificent Glastonbury Abbey was destroyed at his command. No one who lives here thinks much of Henry VIII.

As the evening ended for us, at the final bell in the pub, we bid farewell to the Nagels. We hope that our paths will cross again in some way, whether in K-W or in the UK. They were wonderful people to meet and delightful companions. A great way to complete our day!


Friday, July 16, 2015

Another trip to the countryside … Following a leisurely start to the day, we headed out of town to a pub called Sheppey Inn in Lower Godney. Once we left the main highway, the roads became narrower and narrower until we began to wonder whether anyone would actually come this far on these roads just for lunch. We passed through the village of Godney (blink and you miss it) and the hamlet of Upper Godney (another half blink) and then travelled for what seemed like a long way on winding roads until we reached Lower Godney. A surprise awaited us. Lower Godney was quite a good sized village with several homes all hugging the edge of the road, a couple of businesses, a school, several B&B’s and, of course, Sheppey Inn.

Most buildings in Lower Godney were in very good condition with clean stone structures, brightly painted doorways, colorful flowers hanging in pots and hedges that were trimmed. Sheppey Inn is actually an old dairy barn converted to a new use. It was in very good shape and inviting from the appearance of the exterior. The only entrance was through a small grey door. Not knowing what we might find on the other side, it felt a bit like Alice going through the looking glass.

Inside we found a wonderful bar, fashioned totally from reused materials. We also found several dining areas, each one occupying a room that would have been used during the dairy process. At the back of the building is a large outdoor patio and a large room that might have once been used to store feed and straw. It had been transformed into a rather modern dining area, yet in keeping with the remainder of the inn. We chose to eat in that room because of the many windows that allowed the lovely light of the day pour in.

Drinks, as usual, are ordered at the bar (an ale shandy and a Camden stout) and carried to the table. The menu was extensive and innovative. Jim ordered a fish stew with both shellfish and salmon in it accompanied by a thick sweet potato broth. I ordered a child’s portion of the soup of the day (pea, mint and broad bean) and a monkfish burger. The bowl of soup was huge and delicious. The monkfish burger was a bit unusual – monkfish, thick bacon, a mustard dressing and arugula and a bun. Not just any bun though. This was a squid ink bun. During preparation, squid ink is added to the bun batter, turning it totally black. The presentation of the burger along side fresh plum chutney was exquisite. The squid had no flavour so it was like a regular sesame seed bun but it certainly added a unique flair to the meal.

After lunch, we headed across country on some new roads and came upon the Railway Inn near the villages of Meare and Ashcott. Sadly, it was closed so we could not go in for a beverage. We have been told that if we enjoyed Wilkins Cider Farm, we will also like The Railway Inn. We will go back another day.

We also passed through some peat bogs and huge piles of peat that have been harvested. In one are, two men with large earth moving machines seems to be blending large quantities of two very different materials. One was sandy-coloured and the other deep black. WE asked if they were mixing peat with sawdust. Not so!! The black material was actually household compost hat had been processed and now mixed with sawdust and a few other elements to create a no-peat garden product, one of many products that the peat company distributes.

Back in Glastonbury, the first stages of the weekend Magic Festival had begun. Several magicians gathered in Market Square to perform their shows. It was a pass the hat event. In order to see the more professional magicians, it was necessary to purchase a ticket that allowed entry into the Market Building which is where the Magic Festival is taking place on Saturday and Sunday. Time will tell whether we choose to go or not.

One thing I did do today was to a much needed manicure. It was fun chatting with the aesthetician as she did my nails, another source of local opinion and information. The manicure was not great but at least my nails have more shape and colour than when I  went into the shop.

Tonight we are off to a movie called A Royal Night based on true life stories of Queen Elizabeth and Princess Anne as they grew up.

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Glastonbury House Exchange - A New Travel Experience - July 2015


House Exchange in Glastonbury – A New Travel Experience
July 6- July 26, 2015

Sometime during the cold winter months, I was contacted by a woman from Glastenbury in Somerset, UK. She wanted to know if Jim and I would consider exchanging houses with them for a period of time in the summer. She had found our name and house listing through an organization called teachertravelweb.com to which we all belong.

The winter of 2015 was a cold bleak time for us. Travel plans that we had made needed to be set aside which led to us spending far more time in a very cold Ontario climate than we had ever anticipated. We do not generally make significant travel plans for the summer months so our next significant adventure would not occur until late October. All of these factors led to us responding with a resounding yes to Maggie (the woman who had contacted us).

And so we began to explore the concept and eventually settled on dates and a general plan to trade houses, cars and food in the fridge. Somerset is a part of England that we have not explored so there was certainly lots of potential for new experiences, new sights and new discoveries.

Time passed …. Slowly, at first …. But suddenly the dates were upon us. Our plan was that Maggie and Paul St. Quintin would arrive in Toronto one day prior to us flying to London. That way we could meet in person, show them the ropes at our house and exchange car and house keys in person.

Jim picked Maggie and Paul up at the airport while I put the finishing touches on the house. As soon as they walked through our front door, tired and jet-lagged, I knew we had made the right decision. We embraced physically but also philosophically and the conversation never seemed to end.

Later that night, Iain drive Jim and I to the airport for our Monday flights. (Yes, once again we were flying on different planes but would meet at our destination.) Jim left Monday morning, hours before I did, and I flew out Monday night on a direct flight to Gatwick. All things went very smoothly and we did meet about 30 minutes after my flight landed.

The next part of the plan was to locate Maggie and Paul’s car, parked in a secure lot at a nearby Holiday Inn. We found the transit bus stop and it was not long before we were at the Holiday Inn standing beside their car. So far so good.

Next we took to the roads. It was a bit like riding the proverbial bike. I guess I have driven often enough in countries where cars travel on the left, that it was familiar right from the start.  Although the journey to Glastonbury was about 3 hours, we arrived at our home away from home without a problem. We stopped at a supermarket for some supplies and also for fish and chips at a famous Glastonbury fish shop, Knights, before actually entering our home. Once there, fatigue took over and we almost instantly fell into bed. That was Tuesday, July 7.

Wednesday, July 8, 2015

We had long planned to take this day off. We had just spent two delightful weeks at cottages, the first with friends in Pembroke, and the second with grandchildren in a rustic cabin at Geneva Park on Lake Couchiching. And, we got our house ready for guests and our suitcases packed for England. It was time to lay low.

During the day, we got the internet up and running (a critical feature for both Jim and me); we explored the organization of the kitchen; we sampled UK television: and, I have to be honest, we had a couple of naps.

We explored our Glastonbury home which we found to be both spacious and comfortable. Large kitchen, dining room, lounge room  and powder room on the main floor, and 3 bedrooms and a large bath upstairs. Maggie and Paul have done an attic conversion and their bedroom is in that space. We chose a room on the second floor closer to the bathroom for our use.

Paul is an excellent gardener and their property reflects that. Set right at the street, the house has no front yard at all.  The property behind the house is on a steep slope and has been designed and contoured to maximize the use of that space with raised gardesn, sitting area, a small glass house and a myriad of crops just ready for the picking. All manner of salad greens, rhubarb, raspberries and small tomatoes have been harvested and integrated into the simple meals we are creating here.

The house is at the top of a hill on The Roman Way. Behind us is pastureland, a flowing river, a myriad of footpaths and a herd of dairy cattle that move from field to field throughout the day. Birds of many varieties flutter about. In particular, the swallows are fun to watch as they swoop and glide, catching the air currents. Their morning chorus is a lovely wake-up call.

Thursday, July 9, 2015

We were up early and ready to go. Jim had done some reading about the local area so we had a sense of what we might see around town.

From our home in Glastonbury, we have an amazing view over pastureland, across a river and into Street, the next village over. We were curious about the traffic patterns that we were observing from a significant height above the village. So we ventured off The Roman Way (our street) and meandered through the countryside in search of this road of curiosity. We knew we had been successful when we were able to look over the pastureland from the other side and see the house that we were living in.

We continued along the streets of Street, paying particular attention to the Clarks Outlet Mall. It seems that Street is, in fact, the world headquarters for the Clark Shoe Company. Although all the shoes are now manufactured in Asia, Clarks still has a significant presence in the village as the world administrative headquarters of the entire international enterprise. Additionally, we have read the largest outlet shoe store in the world is located in Street and that all the buildings previously used to manufacture shoes have been transformed into a large outlet mall. Definitely a place we MUST go!

We continued along High Street and enjoyed the many and diverse little shops that make up this village. It was a bit like taking a step back into time to note the ago of the buildings and the nature of the stores – bakeries, butcher shops, green grocers, apothecaries, dry goods, confectionaries, a furniture store, a florist and a women’s dress shop – side by side they created the shopping area of the village. Ohhh, did I forget to mention the pub??

From Street, we continued our exploration of the area and headed to another nearby city called Wells. Wells does not actually have the population to be considered a city but it does have a cathedral. Having a cathedral provides a civic status and automatically that place becomes a city.

Wells also had a central business district that was larger than Street’s and encompassed about 4 city blocks. By now, it was lunchtime and our eyes fell upon a bakery, the name of which fascinated us – Burns the Bread! Well, it turns out that Burns the Bread is headquartered in Glastonbury and all of the baked goods are prepared there. No, they do not burn them …. But Mr. Burns owns the business and works hard to promote the notion that in Somerset, Burns (is) the Bread!!

After indulging in a couple of savoury treats, we commenced our search for the Wells Cathedral. Between one way streets and prohibited access in the central area (and no map), it did take us a while, but we finally persevered and found the cathedral, a glorious building.

On our way out of Wells, I spied a road sign indicating the direction to Burnham-on-Sea. It was a glorious sunny day and a coffee along the seaside sounded like a great idea. So we quickly made a turn and travelled along a narrow and winding road en route to the sea. Travel distances in the UK are measured in miles. A mile is MUCH longer than a kilometer!! And on winding narrow roads, a mile sometimes seems like a very long way. Although it was only 11 miles to Burnham-on-Sea, it took almost an hour to get there. But the journey was well worth it. There we sat at a little table overlooking Bristol Channel enjoying the sun on the glistening water, watching the tide pour out, seeing children play in the sand. And our cappuccinos were perfect!

We chose a different route to return from Burnham-on-Sea, one that turned out to be equally circuitous and equally interesting. Somerset is largely an agricultural area. Vast fields of crops spread out over rolling hills and dominate the landscape. Dairy cattle are prevalent and small farms seem to be a thing of the past. The range of colours in the fields makes the landscape very pretty and the wide vistas provide an exquisite panorama.

Due to the narrow, circuitous roads and the high hedges, it is not always possible to enjoy the landscape. And sometimes, as one rounds a corner there is a surprise in the waiting. Such was the case in the tiny village of Westhay. This area is surrounded by peat bogs, lush black soil, well moistened by the high water table. And a major industry here is the harvesting of peat. We came upon this scene totally unexpectedly and thoroughly enjoyed taking in the views of layers of peat being removed from fields, mixed, sorted, piled and bagged so that gardens everywhere could flourish. One of the delights of choosing the road less travelled as we explore an area.

After Westhay, it was time to head back to Glastonbury. Home for dinner that night and a leisurely evening of reading and planning for the days to come ….

Friday, July 10, 2015

Today we set out to explore the central area of Glastonbury. We were confident that we could find our way to the central area car park and from there, stroll the streets. Not so ….  Before long, we found ourselves on yet another country thoroughfare heading out of town to villages we had not even heard of. Now, that is not such a bad thing if one was able to simply turn the car around and go the other way. Easier said than done on the highways and biways of Somerset. These roads are very narrow, shouldered by stone fences and high hedges. Driveways are infrequent and crossroads are even narrower than the main thoroughfares. Consequently we travelled quite a long distance before we had an opportunity to turn around. We did enjoy the landscape along the way so the drive was not in vain.

Back in Glastonbury, we made our way to the nearest carpark. Coincidentally, it was the same one we parked in when we had fish and chips the other night. It sure looked different coming in from a totally different direction. But it did help us get our bearings as we left the car behind and strolled the streets.

Glastonbury has some unusual stories/myths associated with it, contributing to an ethereal atmosphere throughout the town. One story involves a visit from Joseph of Arimathea with the Holy Grail when he thrust his staff into Wearyall Hill, which then grew into the original thorn tree. A second story purports that Joseph of Arimathea, in fact, brought Jesus, himself, to Glastonbury. Consequently, there is a highly palpable and visible spiritual nature to this community. There are many, many churches of various denominations and faiths. There is a wide range of seminars, learning experiences, faith groups offered to assist in your spiritual development. There is also a well developed commercial market for products connected with various forms of spirituality – incense shops, crystal shops, essential oils, herbs and spices, long flowing clothing, hair colour shops, bookstores, organic food shops and restaurants, music stores … the list goes on. These shops create an ambience along High Street that would be rarely found with such concentration. The only other place even a bit like it that comes to mind is Sedona, Arizona.

As we strolled, we found one very familiar shop – another Burns the Bread. We took that as a sign that we were to eat lunch and once more indulged in their delicious morsels – pasties and sausage rolls are our favourites.

One of the significant features of Glastonbury’s history is the ancient abbey which has been partially preserved. The abbey was constructed in the 7th century and enhanced and enlarged during the next 8 centuries. Then, during the reign of King Henry VIII, everything changed. The Glastonbury Abbey. along with 10,000 other monasteries, nunneries and friaries were torn down and destroyed. The materials that had value were sold and the king lined his pockets with the proceeds. What a sad time it must have been.

We spent some time (and money) in the Abbey store but we will wait to visit the Abbey itself until Iain arrives to spend several days with us here.

We completed our Glastonbury experience for this day by meandering into a series of shops known as The Gauntlet. As we moved deeper into the building, it became clear that the rear exit was in fact, a gauntlet of sorts.  The shops narrowed into a very small corridor and the way out was to ‘run the gauntlet’ of shops in this small alleyway. We did so …. And lo and behold, found ourselves back in the carpark. How convenient.

Jim had visited the local tourist office earlier in the day and returned, armed with brochures that described everything from musical concerts to children’s entertainment venues. Near to our home is a placid park with a single bench. We sat on the bench under the arbor of trees and perused the brochures as a part of planning our activities for the next several days. There is certainly no shortage of choices to be made and places to be visited.

And then … time to go home. We enjoyed dinner at the table, prepared with all sorts of great things from the ample garden that dominates the back yard. A quiet evening followed ….. and bed.


Saturday, July 11, 2015

We had a slow start to this day, performing some household functions within the house. And following that up with a bacon and egg breakfast. Delicious!

Today in Glastonbury, there was a pilgrimage to the Tor (a tower high atop a hill overlooking the entire countryside). This pilgrimage had something to do with parishioners from the Church of England who support a potential merger with the Catholic Church. (There is another pilgrimage tomorrow for parishioners from the Catholic Church who support a potential merger with the Church of England. Isn’t it ironic that the two groups did not plan their pilgrimages together if, indeed, they share the same goals and values?)

What this pilgrimage meant for us was confusion and disruption – closed streets, traffic diversions and loads of people in interesting outfits overtaking the streets. As a result, we headed out of town, once again to Street, our village neighbor. There we found an interesting array of shops, many closed because it was Saturday afternoon.

After a bit of a meander, we settled into a table at Puddy’s bakery for a late lunch. A jacket potato with trimmings for me and roast lamb dinner for Jim, both very British selections, in a very old British bakery.

From there we wandered down the street to a Witherspoons Pub, Jim’s favourite watering hole, and sat on the sidewalk patio, enjoying a beverage, soaking in the sunshine and watching the world go by. A very pleasant activity for a Saturday afternoon.

In the evening, we attended a concert that featured performances by students of a local music teacher, Viola Nagel, who is a friend of Maggie and Paul. We were treated to a wide range of vocal and instrumental performances by students from age 8 to 28. A featured performer was a bassoonist who played some especially unusual music, not necessarily to our taste, yet another way to broaden our music appreciation. We sat directly behind the composer who was also introduced and acknowledged for his contribution to the concert.

This lovely concert took place in a beautiful church of England, St John’s, right on the High Street in Glastonbury and directly adjacent to the now very familiar carpark. It was easy to find our car and our way home.



Sunday July 12, 2015

On Sunday, it rained. That did not stop us though. Today was to be another day of exploring the surrounding towns and villages. And once again, the day was filled with some delightful surprises and a deeper appreciation of the diversity of Somerset.

We headed out early, hoping to take in a folk festival near the village of Priddy. After much discussion (and some whining about the weather on my part), we dispensed with that plan due to the very wet conditions and the likelihood of more rain as the day went on. 

We entered the area known as the Mendip Hills. We were amazed at the height and steepness of many of the hills we traversed. Up and down …. Even through the grey of the sky, we were able to see for miles and appreciate the beauty of the agricultural landscapes to be seen in every direction. We also encountered hundreds (yes, hundreds) of bicyclists who were also enjoying the landscape, peddling hard to attain the crest of each hill and thoroughly enjoying the freedom of the descent. While the bikes added a dynamic to the driving, we could also appreciate what was so appealing about this area from their perspective.

We had no set itinerary so chose directions at various intersections based on the appeal of the village names on the roadsigns. One such choice was to go to the village of Cheddar, to honour our love of the cheese. What we encountered was beyond anything we might have imagined!! The village of Cheddar is located deep in the rocky and precipitous valley created by Cheddar gorge. Cheddar Gorge is the largest gorge in the UK with many parts of the roads built at 16 – 20% slopes. It was, at times, a hair-raising and spectacular drive. And still their were people on bikes ….
The town of Cheddar has capitalized on its location at the bottom of the gorge and is a premier mountain tourist community. The village is long and narrow with the main street lined with shops selling souvenirs, fudge, t-shirts, coffee, baked goods, sausage rolls, maps, bike equipment, hiking equipment … and, of course, cheese. 

After we left Cheddar, we headed off to find a cider farm recommended by Paul, the man whose home we are in. When we found it, our mouths dropped open.  Wilkins Cider Mill is located near Mudgley. It is difficult to find as the signs are often hidden by overgrown hedges and the roads to follow are somewhat less than major. The last road is in fact a deadend road that looks more like a farmer’s lane leading to the back of a farm.

When we finally got there, what we found was a rambling farmhouse and a large well used barn. The barn is where the cider is made and stored in wooden barrels. It is structurally sound although it does show the signs of aging, probably several hundred years old at this point. Once inside, we saw several plastic picnic tables with chairs surrounded by visitors and locals (it was Sunday about noon when we got there) and 4 huge barrels of cider. Down 3 steps to the Lounge Room (truly just another dark room in the barn) where you are given a glass and invited to pour your own cider. Sweet or dry? And if you want medium simply mix some from each barrel.  Then as you sip your cider wander around the barn and look at the ancient equipment, visit the veggie market, pick up a jar of pickled onions or pickled eggs, select one of many t-shirts with the mill’s logo on them …. Or “By the way, would ya’ like some cheese – cheddar or stilton?”  Somehow these words do not capture the ambience of this miil. First of all, I am sure it had not been cleaned properly for about 100 years. Spider webs covered everything that was not in use. Rusted equipment and piles of clutter adorned each corner. Treacherous cement steps led you from one level in the barn to the next – the veggies were 4 steps down from the pickles. The cider barrels were 4 steps down from the tables and the Lounge Room was 3 steps down from that. Somehow, through a back door, one could reach the veggie display that was on the same level as the Lounge Room.  The eggs were back up with the pickles and the t-shirts. As someone on Trip Advisor simply stated, “You really couldn’t make this up. This place is great!” When Iain arrives, we will make a return visit. At no point will we ask how they wash the cider mugs. It’s worth a minute or two to look at the website wilkinscider.com for a good chuckle. It’s open from 10 am to 8 pm daily.

From the depths of the cider mill to the refreshing sounds and scents of the marsh. We drove to the Marshes of Avalon, a sadly underfunded site that maintains several walking tracks, sponsors several interpretive walks and offers a small interpretation centre for the surrounding marshes and peat bogs.  We spent some time exploring the interpretation centre and enjoyed a freshly made lunch but we were not dressed appropriately to head out into the marsh on a rainy Sunday afternoon. 

The Somerset Craft Shop was also a part of this complex and offered a wide array of crafts from natural products, photographs, paintings, jewellery, silk scarves and mosaics. Lovely items but we are most definitely in a phase in our lives where we re happy to admire but reluctant to purchase lest we add more stuff and clutter to our lives. Yes, we left empty-handed.

We had read about Holy Saviour Church in Puxton in a brochure that described interesting churches in Somerset. Based on the description, we knew we wanted to see this church. And we were not disappointed.

Holy Saviour Church was built during the 1200’s and has consistently held services from that time until just a couple of years ago. Although a small community church, it is certainly steeped in history. A Norman baptismal font, a Saxo-Norman nave, box pews (early 1700’s), an  oak reading desk and a very high pulpit  (early 1600’s)  are all in good repair and lead one to wonder about the kinds of messages that would have been delivered within these walls over the last several hundred years. The church tower (1400’s) was built on a peat base and began to lean before it was even completed. It was never constructed to the full height of the original design. Graves in the floor and artifacts on the walls complete the components inside the church. But for one thing … in spite of the fact that regular services are no longer held here, fresh flowers are found on the window sills and the church remains open daily to visitors.  Quite remarkable.

From the church we turned the car toward home. We visited a Farm Shop along the way, looking for fresh fruit to enhance our kitchen. Although there is an abundance of fresh seasonal fruit available, the prices are unbelievably high. We will have to wait until we get home to enjoy fruit in the quantities we would like.

After a short rest at home, we headed out to a pub in Street for dinner, a rather ordinary affair.  It was good to get back home and kick off our shoes for the night.